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3.) There's more than one way to do this, some might say one pour for the footing and another pour
for the wall. I'm going to describe one pour mainly because that's the way I do it. Local codes
will be the determining factor I'm sure. Maintain 18" minimum clearance under floor joist and 12"
minimum under wood beams. Here are some
foundation illustrations, click on the links provided there to see several pier and beam examples.
4.) Once you've setup the batter board and the string line is square, drive 2x4 stakes every 2' feet
around the perimeter and one near each corner using the string as a guide. Start by holding a
level next to the stake as you drive it in so that the bottom of the foundation will be plumb with the
top.
5.) Drive stakes just below the string, and deep enough to be secure.
6.) Fasten forms with #10 duplex nails driven through the stakes and into the form boards, the
ends of the form boards should start and end at the center of a stake. Fasten your form boards around
the perimeter starting at the top using the string as a height gauge. Stagger the ends of the form
boards on each row. It may be necessary to cut the bottom row to fit snug to the ground. Install all
forms and secure to each stake, secure corners as well. If you allowed for a layer of plywood on the
inside of this form, cut and install it now.
7.) Dig a 10" wide 10" deep trench around the perimeter next to the inside
of the form.
8.) Drive 2x4 stakes every 2' around the perimeter, 11-1/2" away from the inside of the
first form. Setup the inside form level with the outside, repeat steps 3 thru 5.
10.) If your plans call for a beam in the center of the floor and it is located under the joist, a pocket
in the concrete to set the beams in may be necessary. If you have a double beam to install, cut two 2x4
blocks 1-1/4" shorter than the height of your beam. If you have a triple beam cut two 2x6 blocks 1-1/4"
shorter than the height of the beam. The 1-1/4" will allow for your sill plate and a 1/4" metal shim under
the beam. Nail the blocks together to form one block measuring 3" thick. Locate where the beam would meet
the concrete and nail the block flush to the top of the form. This will give you a pocket 3" deep for your
beam to rest on.
12.) Using 20' lengths,
bend a piece of #5 rebar about 4' from the end at a 90 degree angle. Set this piece in a corner
and lay between the outside rebar stakes and the form, attach it to the steaks with wire ties about
3" off the bottom of the trench. Bend another #5 rebar at 4' and install in the same corner directly
above the first but because the ends of the rebar should be staggered and not break one over the other,
install with the 4' section facing the opposite direction.
13.) Bend two more pieces, this time at 8', and install at the same height as the first two bars accept
these are installed on the inner stakes. Be careful not to break the ends one over the other. Install
rebar around the perimeter overlapping bars a minimum of 40 diameters, or 25" for #5 (5/8") rebar. Steel
should be within 3" of the bottom and top. If rows are farther than 20" apart install another inside
and outside row of #5 steel in the center.
15.) Following
this example, measure for a 2x4 brace to lay directly on the ground between this new stake and
the form stake. Next, measure for a 2x4 to set on top of the first brace and extend to the top of
the same form stake. Nail securely with #16 nails. Brace each and every stake on both forms in the
same way.